Sewing Retro B4790 #7: Size 22 and 45"

I will start with this breaking news. I discovered last night that size 22 is the largest size that will fit safely on 44/45 inch fabric.

As you know I've been working on Buttterick's pattern #B4790 and having a great deal of fun making it fit. I finished the sample with a few problems pertaining to the bustline and the shoulders. I went with altering to a size 24 in the waist and down to as small as a 16 in the shoulders, then discovered in the end my fabric of choice was not quite 44" after washing. As I said before, it's been fun.

There is something I don't always do when I sew. Washing the fabric. Knowing the pattern was going to be a tight fit, (I was a 1/3 yard short when I bought it. I washed and dried the fabric before laying out the pattern. I found that either the material shrunk that much or it never was quite 44 inches wide. I also found the fabic to have a little stretch to it that I didn't notice before. I'm not sure I like this, so in hindsight--something I should have know better about--check for the amount of stretch in the material you choose. Both the samples I worked on did not stretch at all. I think it will be OK, just passing on that information.

I cut out all three pieces and started marking the darts. After some thought I had decided I wanted to try a straight bust dart, but at the last moment marked it for a slightly angled dart like in the sample. I draw on the back of my fabric whenever I can. I use a white fabric marking pencil or even better (or not) a plain old pencil. I am very methodical/mathematical about my darts. I like to measure from the pattern and transfer those measurements to the fabric.

I don't fret over darts. I measure them out and mark them.

I'll pin and press all the darts before I go to the machine with them. The bust darts go down, the vertical darts go to the outside.

I was going to hold this post until I had the darts done, I think I will go ahead and add this, then if I get them done some time today, I will add them to the end.

2:00 Addendum

The darts and shoulder seams went off with out a hitch. I've included a picture here. It fits just like the muslins did.

I think I am going to like the little bit of stretch
to this material. The next step is sewing on the
overskirt. I am so excited!